I used to surf since I was 6 years old, so if you ask me to choose an extreme sport, I think I would always choose surfing.
Surfing is a passion, it is something that makes you feel powerful and alive at the same time; when you take your wave perfectly and you can feel the whole sea growing up with you as if you were a part of the ocean: There is nothing to compare to this.
But surfing is not just standing on a board and riding the waves. There are a lot of preparations before to get you ready to surf.
One of the most important parts of surfing is to get warmed up, both physically and mentally. This is the part where you realize what you are going to do… According to my own experience, even though I am not a surfer legend, it is important to get prepared on the beach in front of the sea, in front of the waves you are going to catch.
Why? Because this moment helps you to concentrate on yourself and it also helps your adrenaline to kick in, which is always a really good thing for people who need to do the best they can do.
And then comes the moment when the surfer goes to the sea. That first step, the sensation of the water on your skin, cold at first, and then warm like the water is taking the same temperature as you, or you are taking the same temperature as the sea. At this time, there are no differences between you and the sea; the adrenaline is still there and possibly even more present than before. And now you are in the moment, waiting for the good wave, the one you are going to catch, as if you are waiting for the most important moment of your life, because that is what it is at that moment. And when you find it, you stop thinking; you are just focus on riding the wave.
There is something inside you, inside your soul when you are surfing a “big wave”. The wave demands so much focus, so much attention, that it becomes the only thing that matters.
